It’s hard to go to Bruges and not cop the title of the movie In Bruges for a blog post. Espen thinks it was that Colin Farrell movie that we saw on our first date. Nope. For one thing, In Bruges came out in 2008, and we didn’t meet till 2013. Secondly, we weren’t that lucky in movie choices. The movie I suggested that evening was a different Colin Farrell movie—Dead Man Down, which also starred Noomi Rapace and Terrence Howard. Midway through the film, Espen leaned over and whispered, “So … this movie is kinda weird, right?” He was so polite, because that movie was all sorts of terrible. In my defense, the film selections that weekend left much to be desired, especially for a first date. Don’t believe me? These were among the selections: The Croods, Jack the Giant Slayer, and The Last Exorcism Part II. Frankly, we got off light.

I’ve never seen all of In Bruges, but I did catch part of it once while channel surfing back in the olden days before streaming. As for its plot, the most I remember is that one of the main characters was trying to kill the other. What did stand out, though, was the town itself. I’m not sure I’d ever even heard of the town before that movie, but afterward, it was mentally cataloged as one of those cities I’d love to see someday … but likely wouldn’t. Of course, I also didn’t think I’d ever marry someone so determined to make my dreams come true.

E had a business trip and suggested I meet him in Belgium so we could have a nice couples weekend in Bruges. It was late May, so of course we envisioned pleasant temperatures with blue skies during the day and sunsets over the canals during our strolls through town. We were so, so wrong. It seems we are cursed to experience unseasonable weather whenever and wherever we travel. Back in June 2019, Europe experienced a record-breaking heatwave. By the time we left for our trip to Copenhagen, Germany, Luxembourg, and Amsterdam—just a couple weeks later—the temp had dropped so significantly that neither of us took out any of the warm-weather clothes we’d packed. In fact, I had to buy sweaters (plural) in order to survive. We have had to cut Norwegian vacations short due to the cold and rain—also in July. And we still laugh about the frigid temperatures we experienced during a hop-on/hop-off bus tour in Malaga when the bus turned to drive along the coast.

So it really shouldn’t have been a surprise that it was chilly and rainy in Bruges. It rained so much the first night that we had to seek shelter in a restaurant before continuing our way to our hotel. And the walking tour scheduled for the next day? We didn’t even bother. The tour was to conclude with a boat ride along the canals, but it was raining so much that it would’ve been miserable. We opted to duck in and out of stores and sights as the weather warranted.

It’s a truly lovely town. Other than the cab rides between the train station and hotel, we walked the entire time without any problems and managed to see basically everything we wanted. Do I wish the weather had been more cooperative? Yes, of course. But we had a great time, and I still managed to take lots of photos. (Click the photos to see them larger.)

First up, our hotel, Martin’s Relais. Charming but showing some wear, the hotel is made of five townhomes dating back to the 13th century. It shouldn’t be a surprise that the steps are steep and narrow. I wouldn’t say I have bathmophobia (fear of going down the stairs), but I definitely don’t love it, and I almost always need to use the handrail for extra security. I fell down a flight of stairs as a toddler, and while I wasn’t physically injured, apparently there’s a part of my brain that remains on high alert. (Bleachers and stadiums create serious anxiety in me.) I got used to these by the time we left, but there was a another set in the hotel that truly tested me. They were so much worse.

Bruges is the perfect place to wander. To escape the rain, we visited the Historium. The tour starts with a VR tour of the Waterhalle, which was built in 1294 and served as the central point of Bruges’ port. The Historium sits on the site of the Waterhalle. After the VR intro, small tour groups are directed through a special exhibition that leads from one room to another, each designed to give visitors some medieval flavor. A large screen plays a short movie divided in several chapters that coincide with the interior of whatever room you’re in. The movie follows the love story between an assistant in Jan van Eyck’s studio and a model posing as the Madonna for one of van Eyck’s paintings. After that tour, you can take the self-guided tour through the rest of the building; enjoy the beer bar overlooking the square, and climb the tower. An interesting bit about the tower: You enter on the first floor, but you must go through this narrow makeshift doorway before entering the actual door for the tower. I joked with Espen, “What’s with this doorway? Are we being transported to a magical place or something?” When we got to the top of the tower, I realized why. The door leading from the tower to the balcony is tight—a mere 45 cm (17.7 inches) wide—as is the balcony itself. It is exactly the width of the makeshift doorway downstairs. Rather than say that you have to be smaller than X, they test visitors with that doorway. It’s a version of “You must be this tall to ride this ride,” only it’s “You must fit through this door to enter.” Believe me, you don’t want to get stuck up there. My hips, like Shakira’s, don’t lie, but I made it through.

We managed to do a lot the three days we were there. We took in the Salvador Dali museum, located beneath the Belfry of Bruges; hit the beer museum for the “Bruges Beer Experience”; visited the chocolate museum (and ate lots of the free chocolate); toured the Zot Brugse brewery; drank some amazing if not quite hot enough hot chocolate; and had a couple of really good dinners.

Bruges is known for its canals, which date back to the late 1200s and run through the city. Virtually every single view along the canals is picturesque.

We didn’t do much actual shopping but had a good time browsing the many small shops. It’s a feast for the eyes everywhere you turn.

And so concludes Bruges. Next up? Ireland and Northern Ireland! We’re doing a two-week road trip around the island. I’m so looking forward to it! My awesome friend Alison, whom I’ve known for almost 30 (!) years, is Irish, and she has given us so many amazing tips. Bonus: Our time in Ireland will actually coincide with Alison’s annual visit with her family, so I’ll get to see her while there. Yay! Anyway, I know I’m going to take hundreds of photos. It may take some time, but I will do a post. Stay tuned!